THAI CULTURE

"To understand the man's culture, his beliefs, what he eats and how he lives, is to understand the man" - Shaun Boland 2003.

For me to write about the whole culture of a nation would require a separate web-site, however, I want to share a taste of Thai culture with you from both my personal experience and research.

To assist you in learning more about this great nation and its people I shall include links so you may do your own research.

The more you research and study a subject the more you become involved and you develop passion and empathy for it.

This can be said for my study of Thailand and its people.

What a wondrous people they are too, diverse in many ways; from the hill tribes in the North to the citizens of Bangkok, from the fishermen of Krabbi to the night owls of Pattaya and, yet, each of them connected through a simple smile.

Travel brochures often portray Thailand as the happy-go-lucky 'Land of Smiles', an impression the Tourism Authority of Thailand are more than happy to go along with. Most visitors will even see a sign welcoming them to the 'Land of Smile' (sic) in the airport before they've even cleared immigration. Though the famous Thai smile is not so common in Bangkok nowadays, you'll certainly understand why this slogan has stuck for so long if you spend any length of time in the more rural parts of Thailand. Even in Bangkok, you can smile at any Thai person and it's pretty rare you won't get a smile back in return.

New visitors often assume that the Thais are a very friendly and happy people, but this is a bit of an oversimplification. After all, many of the Thais they meet are working long hours in menial jobs and earning less than £150 a month - what do they really have to smile about so much ?

The reason is there's a much broader range of uses for smiling in Thailand, some of which would be considered as inappropriate or even as rude in the west. For example, if a Thai bumps into you in a bar and spills some of your drink, he'll probably smile - a reaction that is unlikely to go down well with the average foreigner.

But the smile (yim in Thai) is perceived in Thailand as being just about the most appropriate reaction to any possible situation. It's used to show happiness, embarrassment, fear, tension, resignation, remorse etc...What the smile means depends on the 'type' being used - out of a possible 13.

Yim tak tai - The polite smile, used for strangers or people you barely know.

Fuen yim - The "I'm being forced to smile even though I don't want to" smile.

Yim cheuat cheuan - The smile a winner gives to a losing rival.

Yim tang nam dtah – Used when you are really happy, the "I've just won the lottery smile.

Yim tak tan – The "Sorry, but you're wrong and I'm right" smile.

Yim sao – The smile used to mask feelings of sadness or unhappiness.

Yim mee lay-nai - The smile used to conceal evil ideas, aka the "I'm smiling because I'm about to rip you off and you don't realize" smile.

Yim chuen chom – The smile when you're impressed with or admire someone.

Yim yor – The smile used to mock, taunt or laugh at someone.

Yim Mai ork – When you want to smile but can't, literally the smile that dosen't come out.

Yim yair-yair – The smile used to apologise and to take the heat out of potentially awkward or embarrassing situations.

Yim haring – Literally "the dry smile" this is a nervous and apologetic smile, aka the "sorry we forgot your luggage but please don't get angry with me"smile.

Yim soo – The "my situation is so bad I might as well smile" smile.

You can't necessarily assume that anyone smiling is happy or friendly, because, as shown above, there are also a few less pleasant reasons for them to do so. Similarly it helps to know, for instance, that people smiling if you happen to trip up may not actually be laughing at you (yim yor ), but just giving you a yim yair-yair to try and stop you feeling embarrassed.

Obviously, being able to distinguish one type of smile from another is no easy task for the average visitor to Thailand. It helps to be aware of the less pleasant varieties though and not, as many visitors do, get so mesmerized by the 'happiness' of everyone that you don't see what's really going on underneath the sometimes superficial smile.

The key focus for understanding the Thai is Sanuk, a word that can be translated as "fun" or "enjoyable". Indeed, the quantity - and quality - of Sanuk, whether in work or play, determines if something is worth pursuing. Almost as important is the concept of Sabai, best translated as "comfortable" or "contented". As far as the Thai people are concerned, in the best of all possible worlds life should be both Sanuk and Sabai-for visitors to the Kingdom as much as for its inhabitants. The antithesis of Sanuk is Seriat – a borrowing from the English word serious. Life just isn't meant to be taken too seriously.

Thailand's lifestyle traditionally has been centred on agriculture, an activity that nurtures a sense of community, especially during planting and harvest. All over the country, ethnic Thais inhabit lowland valleys or plains, growing rice in irrigated paddy fields. They leave the hills and mountains to other peoples – the Chao Khao, or hill tribes, like the Akha and Hmong.

Today, most Thais still live in the country or in small towns, although Bangkok, the archetypical primal city, is now home to more than 10 million people, nearly 20 percent of the national population. The demands of city life have changed much of the countryside's casual ways, but even in Bangkok it is a rare Thai who does not enjoy getting together with friends. Indeed, the notion that one might go off solo to a dinner or on a holiday is considered Mai Sanuk, or not fun. Similarly, office life must contain a certain amount of chatting and passing around of snacks for it to avoid being mai sanuk.

Generally speaking, Thais hate to be alone, and most are puzzled by the average foreigner's need for occasional solitude. There is a sense of family about Thai activities, a gathering that does not exclude outsiders. For the visitor invited to join, there is no automatic expectation of reciprocation, although it would always be much appreciated.

It is not unusual for a visitor to stray into a small city lane and be invited to join a partying group. Such activities are usually accompanied by music, alcoholic drinks and small snacks. Drunkenness is frowned upon, but certain tipsiness is acceptable in such circumstances.

When a visitor encounters a tense situation, it is usually because of differences of language and custom. In such instances, it is best to adopt another Thai attitude, Jai Yen, or cool heart, to deal calmly with the problem. It is difficult to stir a Thai to real anger. A smile and an apology should deflate almost any tense situation. Anger demonstrated by physical violence or raised voices, can provoke serious hostility, however, and an angry Thai can be very aggressive indeed. For example, touching a Thai (especially on top of the head), shouting, or threatening the strong sense of independence, that Thais have, may effect an immediate and often hostile response.

Visitors should also avoid pointing their feet at Thais, for example, when crossing their legs. The foot is considered unclean, and pointing it at someone is thought to be a great insult.

Closely allied to Jai Yen is a concept that provides the answer to all of life's vicissitudes: Mai Pen Rai , a phrase best translated as "never mind". Most Thai would rather shrug their shoulders in the face of adversity than risk escalating a difficult situation. Solutions that contribute to restoring or maintaining calm are welcomed. In fact, one reason the Thais have survived intact as a sovereign nation is by adopting a superb sense of compromise, putting trifling or trivial matters in perspective, or else ignoring them. Truly this aspect of the Thai character may be likened to a bamboo, bending without breaking, then snapping back into place and swaying in the breeze.

A sense of spirituality filters through almost every aspect of Thai daily life. At its foundations is Buddhism, with a distinctly Thai texture.

Buddhism – a philosophy, rather than a religion – has played a profound role in shaping the Thai character, particularly in the people's reactions to events.

Buddhism is Thailand's main religion. 94 % of Thai people are Buddhist. The others are Muslim, Catholic or Chinese. Buddhism was born 2546 years ago (the official year in Thailand is the year 2003 – at the time of writing this - and the traditional year is the year 2546). Buddhism is linked with the historical Indian prince, Siddharta Gautama, who became the Buddha and reached enlightenment ("NIRVANA"). His teachings are still followed today. His teachings say that people suffer because they are attached to material things, to women or men by heart links. These links cause suffering, jealousy and pain. People are never satisfied, i.e. they want more money, more power.

The aim of Buddhism is to rid you of these pains and of these links. There are several kinds of Buddhism. Thai Buddhism is called Theravada Buddhism. It says that monks are more suited to reach the enlightenment because they follow a strict way of life far from material attachment. Their life is based on 227 monastic rules and 5 major precepts, i.e. no sex, no lies, no robbery, no alcohol, no killing. Everyone can hope to one day reach enlightenment but the path shall be long, it will take many lives. Each time somebody or an animal dies, it will reincarnate into something else. It depends on your "KARMA". If you have done good deeds in your life, the next life will be better. If you have done bad deeds, the next life will be hard.

The Lotus is important in Buddhism. It symbolises the enlightenment. Because the lotus blossoms on a dirty pool, it symbolises the passage from darkness to light, the passage from ignorance to wisdom.

Thai Buddhism is fascinating because it is a mixing with the old religions (Animism, Brahmanism), which were there before the introduction of Buddhism in Thailand. Still, nowadays the influence of the previous religions is present.

Today's hectic lifestyle coupled with western influences is causing some change in the way the Thais perceive their beliefs.

People still believe in Buddhism precepts, but now they understand that their life can be improved today. They don't have to wait for the next life. They also understand that those influential powerful people are not people that acted in a good way in their previous life but are corrupted people that take profit over poor people. In the same way, Thai Buddhism is different from the original Buddhism, as people can expect improvement in their current life by making good actions.

Since a few decades ago, in fact since the beginning of real economic development in Thailand, Buddhism has been facing problems.

The first problem - is the decreasing number of monks. There are still 200,000 monks in Thailand but the number is declining (same as in Europe where the number of priests is also declining). One of the major problems is to find new monks. With the growing of the consumption society, less young people are becoming monks. Before, for most people, becoming a monk was a choice of life. Some people become monks, not by religious choice, but to escape their own life. Becoming a monk brings high status and for some people it is the only way to reach higher rank in society.

The Second problem - is that people are going to temples less often, especially in big cities. So donations to temples are declining. In the past Thai people went to the temples at least every holy day ( "WAN PHRA"), which happens once a week. Now most people only go for major feasts. Upcountry where life is not so stressed, more people still go to the temple.

The third problem - is due to monks forgetting Dharma rules and using improper activities in order to increase the donations to their temple. For example in 1998 the abbot of "WAT SANAM CHAN", in Chachoengsao province, initiated a new styling of the image of Buddha called "stepping on Earth". The more faithful visited the temple and donated more money, even holy water was sold. The Religious Affairs Department stepped in and asked the abbot to stop the activities. Is that business or Buddhism? It is very far from the Lord Buddha's original teachings. The potential danger for Thai Buddhism is often inside and not outside.

The fourth problem - is contest inside Buddhism. During the 20th century, Thai Sangha has been confronted with other Buddhist movements:

The Suan Mokh School of Buddhadasa Bhikkhu ("PHUTTHATHAT" in Thai language) stresses rationalism in core Buddhist teachings as opposed to animist beliefs often found in popular Buddhism. For example blessing cars, motorcycles, trees, washing machines and even Thai Airways planes - blessed by the Supreme Patriarch. Actually monks do what lay people expect from them. Buddhadasa Bhikkhu thinks this is not the right way, monks are here to teach Dharma to lay people. Even if animism gives a colourful Buddhism, animism beliefs should not force monks to do things that are incompatible with Buddhism.

Buddhadasa Bhikkhu (1906-1993) is known as a reformist of the Thai Sangha. Very early on he was in contradiction with the Sangha ideas. For him the Buddha's lessons and teachings were not respected anymore. Centuries that passed away have added other beliefs, other texts that have distorted the original teachings.

§ The Forest Monks School, stresses a reclusive, meditative life.

§ The cult-like Huppa Sawan focuses on mysticism.

§ The fundamentalist Santi Asoke emphasizes self-sufficiency and anti-consumerism.

§ Dhammakaya movement incorporates consumer values with popular Buddhism. Dhammakaya movement's main temple is located at Pathum Pani. In 1999 it has been accused of acting like a sect, to have distorted and to have commercialised Buddhism. Phra Dhammachayo was removed as the abbot of Wat Dhammakaya following police inquiries into his alleged role in the embezzlement of over 90 million baht in temple funds.

Thai Buddhism has fallen victim to the 1997 crippling economic crisis of Thailand which forced devotees to curb participation in religious activities. A survey of 1,253 Bangkok residents by the Thai Farmers Bank research centre found 43.5 percent were cutting back on religious events, such as temple-going, which normally involves donations of food or money. The most popular religious activity among respondents was going to the temple (19.1 percent), followed by the early-morning practice of giving alms to monks at 18.1 percent and praying (17.1 percent).

The average sum of money given to monks had fallen to 50 Baht a time, from between 100 and 200 Baht during the country's boom years. A separate survey of 59 abbots of Buddhist temples found a quarter had noticed the faithful were donating significantly less money to their local temples. A third said their temples were having severe financial problems because of a lack of funds, while 12.7 percent said their temples were increasingly becoming the target of thieves. Some 16.2 percent said more people were coming to ask for free meals and 14.5 percent said monks were receiving less alms in their morning rounds.

Articles about monks can be found in Thai newspapers. Some are related to bad affairs like raping young girls, seizing fake money in temples, black magic ritual that have caused death to people, seizing amphetamines pills carried by monks, monks who visited a resort island and observed beauty contestants in their swimsuits, donations embezzlement ( a monk who had got 60 Mercedes Benz cars and so violated the religion anti-materialist precepts, another monk who stole over 300,000 baht from his temple to gamble on World Cup matches), abbots having intercourse with women, monks wearing laymen clothes and going to karaoke, an abbot wearing an army colonel uniform and entertaining women in a remote house, monks involved in murder.

The moral towards monks is also declining. In 2000 a Thai fashion designer made monk robes to be used as outfits for female models. Also an abbot was killed in order to steal the donation money given to the temple.

More and more people are asking for a global reform of the Sangha. Major complaints are about the Sangha Council which is composed of 19 monks. Most of them have reached 80 years old. So a substitution is asked. Sangha Council takes too long to take decisions, for example Dhammakaya movement, Phra Yantra (Yantra was defrocked in 1995 for a number of alleged misdeeds). Some critics want to cut the links with the state's bureaucracy and Monarchy. In fact the Dhammayut movement is linked with the Monarchy and many monks are accused of looking for honour or gratitude given by the King.

Phra Maha Boonthueng Chutinataro , deputy rector of Maha Chulalongkorn Rajavithayalai, said "it was time for the old monks to make way for the younger generation. These monks are too old and are still in the old world. I see no bright future for Buddhism if it continues to depend on these old monks. It's time for them to take a rest and leave the matter to the young-blooded, who are more determined and truly dedicated to our religion". He said the entire system should be overhauled and made to comply with the country's democratic system and the new constitution. Sangha organisation is often compared to a big bureaucracy where promotion through monastic ranks depended on seniority and regulations laid down by the Sangha Council.

More and more people are also asking for a more professionally financial management system for temple donations. It should allow donations to be better used for the benefit of the Thai society and Thai Buddhism.

Some men are monks for decades but there are also some men who are monks for a short time. They do it in order to bring merit to their parents ("THAM BUN"). A boy is not a man until he has been a monk once in his life.

Even the King of Thailand, Rama IX, has been a monk during a month. In the old days this period was three months. Now it can be only a few weeks or a few days. Some families still refuse to marry their daughter if the future husband has never been a monk. It means that he isn't ripe enough. Ordination is an important part of life in Thai society. A boy that becomes a monk ("PHRA") for a few months is making a really good action towards his parents.

Monks wear a robe of saffron colour. They have few possessions: a bowl for eating and getting food every morning and a water filter in order not to eat small insects.

Vocabulary used when speaking with a monk is not the same as everyday vocabulary. Monks deserve respect. Depending on the age of the monk different words are used when talking to a monk.Monks represent the Lord Buddha. When a Thai person greets a monk or even a novice, they greet the Lord Buddha's teachings

• "LUANG PHI" is used for young monk.
• "LUANG PHO" is used for middle aged monk.
• "LUANG PU" is used with an old renowned monk.
• "LUANG TA" (often a man that did become a monk when he was quite old) is less respectful that "LUANG PHO".
• "LUANG THERA" is used for a man being a monk for 10 years.

In Thailand, there is a tradition that when a high ranking person has made some bad mistakes, he goes into a temple for a certain amount of time. He "washes" his errors. A man can stop to be a monk at any time; it is his own choice to make.

In large airports there are even areas reserved for monks. In Bangkok International airport, those areas are surrounded by orchids.

These are the different representations of Lord Buddha in Thai religious art.

Reclining Buddha The Lord Buddha is sleeping and waiting for death. He has reached Nirvana.	Sitting Buddha Teaching Dharma: the Lord Buddha's hands are turning the Dharma wheel.	Sitting Buddha This position is called "Taking the Earth to witness" or "Subduing Mara" (left hand in lap, right hand touches ground). The demon Mara sends his three daughters to seduce the Lord Buddha and then an army to defeat him. The Buddha calls "MAE THORANI" by touching the earth. She drowns the army with the water, which falls from her hair.
Begging Buddha Begging position:One Palm upturned, begging.	Sitting Buddha Stop fighting: the Lord Buddha warns that it is now time to talk, time for peace. People can come closer to listen to his teaching. The palm of one hand facing the front.
Giving alms Every morning at dawn, monks can be seen out to get some food. The Thai people can be seen filling the monks bowls with rice, soft drinks, and cakes and so on... This ceremony is called "TAKBAT"	Walking Buddha The Lord Buddha is walking around in order to teach the Dharma.	Meditating Buddha Meditating with both hands on the lap, palms up, with the right hand on top.

The Lord Buddha is calling for rain. Such statues can be found in Isan and Laos area. Both arms are down at the sides, palms against the thighs.

It can be hot, it can be cool. There is nothing bland about Thai cuisine, which most likely explains its universal appeal.

Good food in Thailand is found in fascinating places, from seafood markets to floating restaurants to hawker stalls. Wherever one travels in the country, Aromas and attractive food presentations are very appealing.

Thais take time over their meals, talking and making an entire evening of the affair. Since dishes are placed in the middle of the table and shared by all, it makes sense to take several friends so that one can order more dishes and sample more tastes

Here are a few examples of Thai dishes:

Green curry – Gaeng kheo wan gai	Spring rolls – Paw pia tord	Chicken sweet and sour soup – Tom hah kai
Mango with sticky rice – Khao neow mamuang		The table is set Enjoy!

Anywhere in Thailand, at any time the street restaurants are opened. Many street restaurants can be found in markets. Some foreigners don't dare eat there for fear of being ill. All the same, the food is cheap and good. For example the price for noodles with soup is around 20-25 Baht. When eating in a street restaurant, it is possible to see the cooker choosing the ingredients and making the food.

In Thai restaurants, people use a fork and a spoon. Thai people don't use a knife because the meat is already cut when preparing the food. The fork is used to push the food into the spoon. Chopsticks are used to eat the soup because Thai soups contain noodles, fish balls, seafood and so on... The custom to eat with spoon and fork was brought by King Rama V from a trip of Europe in the 19th century. In Thai street restaurants, it is not unusual to see a roll of toilet paper – this is for use as a napkin. Traditionally, Thai people used to eat sitting on the floor. Up-country this friendly custom still remains, especially for family gatherings. Once again the custom to eat while sitting on a chair was brought from Europe by King Rama V.

Many small, travelling restaurants, offering one dish, go through the neighbourhood calling everybody and giving off a delicious smell.

Beer and whisky are the Thai favourite alcohols. In Thai restaurants the glass is hardly half empty when the waiter fills it again and adds ice. Without saying a single word, bottles are opened again and again. At the end of the meal, it is common to have a bottle hardly started. A tip at the end of the meal is, of course, welcomed by the waiters.

Many street restaurants offer grilled food such as "MOO SATE" i.e. grilled pork to be eaten with a peanut sauce and cucumbers.

Everywhere in Thailand on the streets, it is possible to buy refreshments such as soda (the vendor fills a small bag with ice, soda, adds a straw and closes it with an elastic), milk, tea, Thai coffee ("OLIENG").

In Thailand there is a fantastic variety of restaurants: floating, on beaches, in markets and so on... There are American restaurant chains such as hamburgers chains, donuts chains, pizza chains and ice-cream chains.

There are also Thai restaurant chains like "SUKI YUKI" chains, "banana leaf" chains. Bangkok has got the biggest restaurant in the world where waiters and waitresses must wear roller skates to get from one spot to another to serve customers. This restaurant is called Tam-Nak-Tai (Ratchadaphisek Road).

"KIAW TIAW" is a Thai soup with noodle, meat or fish balls, and vegetables. "KIAW TIAW REUA" is another type of Thai soup. The restaurants offering this meal always have a boat (i.e. "REUA" ) as a symbol.

Some popular restaurants are the restaurants in department stores. It is often a big hall surrounded by small shops. Each shop can cook some different dishes but is specialised in one. Prices are ranging from 20 to 35 Baht a dish. There is a little stall where tickets are bought. If all tickets are not used, money is given back.

The "ROTI" dish comes from India. It is based on flour paste then the cooker adds milk and egg.

In "ISAN" area markets, it is possible to eat bugs like scorpions, grasshoppers, larva, beetles and even sometimes dogs. These days, farmers are making more by harvesting lice than rice. Now Bangkok residents also appreciate eating bugs. Canned grasshoppers, locusts, water beetles, crickets, silkworm pupae and ant eggs are available at the supermarket. Bangkok residents think of bugs as a healthy, low-calorie treat.

No article on Thai food would be complete without mentioning the famous, or infamous, Asian durian fruit.

The fruit called durian ("THURIEN" ) is famous for its pungent smell when it is ripe. Because the smell can be so strong, durians are often forbidden in public places such as Thai hotels. The smell can persist even if the fruit has been moved to another place. One thing is for sure, nobody can steal a durian. Due to the smell it is impossible to hide it!

There are many different durian species. Prices range from 100 Baht up to 2000 Baht. Those high prices are reserved to durian (species "MON THONG"), which are big and contain abound flesh and small pits. Species "KADUM", "CHANEE", "KAN YAO" have bigger pits and less flesh.

A durian is heavy and with its thorns it can be dangerous if it falls on the feet.

Opening a durian is a difficult task. A big butcher knife has to be used to open it. The top of the fruit is cut by making big slices and it is necessary to pull the hard and sticky peel to open the durian. Inside the big slices is the flesh. Beware, for durian is said to be a fruit that makes people fatter.

In Thailand there are 133 species of durian in Thailand. It is said that the 1942 flood has destroyed many durian orchards. After the flood most producers only planted the easy growing durians.. Generally, the lifespan of a durian tree is about 150 to 180 years. At hot season a tree can have up to 50 fruits.

The best Asian durians are said to be found in Thailand. The Season in Thailand is all year depending on the species. In all Asia durian is said to be the king of the fruits. The Asian people are really fond of it. When the season begins; it is common to see Asian people nudge each other with their elbows to get to the best durians.

Durian can be eaten fresh, in durian ice-cream or with sticky rice. Durian can also be found inside cakes, moon cakes, sweets and so on... Even a durian-flavoured condom can be bought (I'm not sure if the smell is authentic though- hopefully not!).

The first time in the mouth, people have got a strange feeling of something similar to old butter. After eating, there is still a strong durian breath in the mouth. All the same, It is worth trying!

Old varieties of durian rarely seen in fruit markets

In Nakhon Nayok province, there is an orchard called the "LA-ONG FAH" orchard. It does contain 700 durian trees. The owner is Chatri Sowantrakul and it took more than 30 years to grow such an orchard. It now also serves as a botanical garden where about 50 rare species of durian are well preserved. This orchard has a wide variety of strange-looking durians; some are oval, others are round and flat. Several have long stems. The colour of the meat comes in various shades: white, light yellow, dark yellow, and even gold. Their names are unfamiliar: kob ratsamee, toranee hwai, chai maa fai, jok loi, thong, yoi chat, nom sod and khun non.

Just writing about three ways of Thai culture, People, religion and food, has taken up a fair bit of space. Yet I have barely scratched the surface on each of these topics!

In addition there are:

• THE PERFORMING ARTS - epic tales of Ramakien, the Nang yai shadow puppets, traditional dance and Thai music.
• FESTIVALS - such as Songkran (water festival), Loy Kratong (festival of lights), Visakha puja (Buddhist holiday) and Bung bang fai (Rocket firing festival).
• ARCHITECTURE – Temple icons, Chedi, Thai Wat (temples), traditional waterfront homes and teak houses.

I am therefore leaving it to you to do your own further research, using key words from the above selection and entering them into your search engines (See links page) will reap a whole world of results.

The following links will assist you into your journey of education and understanding – Chok Dee Khrup! (Good luck) – KRU YAI SHAUN.