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Temples of Thailand

Failing to visit one of the 30,000 Wats when visiting Thailand would be akin to not visiting the Pyramids when in Egypt or the Vatican when in Rome. Perfect Beauty is the closest translation of the Thai word 'Wat' although it really does not convey the full meaning. It is much more than just a place of worship; a Wat is a collection of buildings within an enclosure serving various purposes such as: a Buddhist monastery, a Temple. It also influences life, culture and education so the Wat is very much a community centre. The construction of a Wat is often funded by wealthy patrons, contributing in this way, to the Buddhist, is a good way to make merit.

A typical Buddhist wat consists of the following buildings:
  • Chedi - (from Sanskrit: Chaitya - Temple) usually conical or bell-shaped buildings, often containing relics of Buddha;
  • Viharn or wihaan (from Sanskrit: vihara) - a meeting and prayer room;
  • Mondhop (from Sanskrit: Mandapa) - the library;
  • Sala (from Portuguese for "hall") - a pavilion for relaxation or miscellaneous activities; Could also be from Sanskrit: Shala - School)
  • Bot or ubosot - the most holy prayer room, also called the "ordination hall" as it is where new monks take their vows. Architecturally it is similar to the viharn; the main differences are the eight cornerstones placed around the bot to ward off evil. The bot is usually more decorated than the viharn. (Could be from Sanskrit - Matha).


TEMPLES OF BANGKOK

The Grand Palace


The Grand Palace

Your visit to Thailand, particularly its capital Bangkok, would not be complete without a visit to the Grand Palace which also houses the Emerald Buddha contained in the Bot known as Wat Phra Kaeo. The Grand Palace is vast and I have still to see it all and I have visited there 3 times to date! Construction of the Grand Palace began in 1782 when King Rama 1 established the new capital of Bangkok. The Kings ambition was to construct the temple along the lines of the grand chapels of previous capital cities.



Symbolizing the simultaneous founding of the Chakri dynasty, this temple was to surpass its larger Sukhothai and Ayutthaya predecessors in the splendor of its design and decoration. The result of the Kings vision was Wat Phra Kaeo, or temple of the emerald Buddha (officially known as Wat Phra Si Rattana Sasadaram). This is so called because the Bot houses the Emerald Buddha image brought to Bangkok from Wat Arun in 1785.




The Emerald Buddha


The Emerald Buddha

In 1434 a lightening bolt struck the Chedi of Wat Phra Kaeo in Ching Rai Northern Thailand, a simple stucco Buddha image was revealed. The Abbot of the temple kept it in his residence until the flaking plaster exposed a jadeite image beneath. Learning of the discovery, the King of Chiang Mai sent an army of elephants to bring the image to him. The elephant that bore the Emerald Buddha, however, refused to take the road to Chiang Mai and, treating this as an auspicious sign, the entourage re-routed to Lampang. The image was moved several more times over the next century, then, in 1552, was taken to Wat Pha Kaew in Laos. It was not until general Chakri (later Rama 1) captured Vientiane in 1778 that the Emerald Buddha was returned to Thailand. It was kept in Wat Arun for 15 years before a Grand River procession on the 5th of March 1785 bought it to its current resting place.




Wat Arun


Wat Arun

One of Bangkok’s best known landmarks the Wat Arun is named after Aruna the Indian God of dawn hence it is also known as ‘the temple of dawn’. Standing on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River in Thon Buri and glistening majestically in the sunlight during the day while standing dark and noble during dawn or dusk, Wat Arun can be best seen from the opposite bank of the river.

Wat Arun is one of the few Bangkok temples predating the Chakri dynasty, the current rulers of Thailand. When General Phya Taksin crowned himself king in 1769, he moved the capital across the Chao Phraya River to Thonburi. Wat Makok temple fell within the area intended for the king's new palace along the riverbank. The young king designated it the royal temple and changed its name to Wat Jaeng—the Temple of Dawn, a name thought to commemorate the founding of the new dynasty. King Taksin treated the monks badly, expelling them so that he could worship privately in the temple.

Monks were allowed to return during the rule of Rama I, the first King of the Chakri dynasty, who disestablished Wat Jaeng as the royal temple when he moved the capital across the river to what is today downtown Bangkok. His successor, Rama II, renamed it Wat Arun Rajtharam and renovated the temple. He planned to raise the central spire (known as a Prang) beyond its original 16 meters, but he died before the project was realized. His successor, Rama III, completed the project in the years 1842-1847. The Prang was raised to an astonishing 67 meters, making it the highest one in Thailand even today.

The temple is an architectural reproduction of Mount Meru, the center of the world in Buddhist cosmology. The four cornered prang, which house images of the guardian gods of the four directions, reinforce the symbolism.

The Wat really looks better from a distance than close up, and you're not missing out too much even if you only view from across the river. The grounds are fairly pleasant and peaceful though, with good murals and a main Buddha image supposedly designed by King Rama II. The mythical guardians here are also quite impressive, though very similar to those at Wat Phra Kaew.

It is possible to walk a limited way up the (very steep) stairs of the main prang, which gives a reasonable view of the Chao Phraya river.



Despite its name (coming from Aruna, the Indian god of the dawn), the best views and photos of Wat Arun are in the evening with the sun setting behind it. There are some restaurants on the opposite side of the river that are good for watching this, though you'd be lucky to see the image of Wat Arun that's on all the postcards - that of the red sky sunset with the sun setting directly behind the temple. Sunset is around 6pm - 7pm all year round in Bangkok.

Wat Arun is a little unusual as it's really the only major tourist attraction on the Thonburi side of the river. It is open every day from 8.30am to 5.30pm. Officially, entrance to the Wat is 20B and the ferry crossing is 2B. Sometimes if you walk around the Wat grounds, you will be requested for a donation (with a book showing how everyone else gave 100B/200B), and sometimes the staff at the pier will cite some excuse and charge another 10B or so to let you through.




Wat Pho


Wat Pho

Wat Pho or Wat Phra Chetuphon as it is generally known to the Thais is mainly famous for the huge Reclining Buddha statue it houses. At 20 acres large, it is the largest Wat in Bangkok, and is technically the oldest too, as it was built around 200 years before Bangkok became Thailand's capital. However, today the Wat bears virtually no resemblance to that originally constructed, as it was almost entirely rebuilt by Rama I when the capital was moved to Bangkok. It holds the dual honors of having both Thailand's largest reclining Buddha image and the most number of Buddha images in Thailand.

The highly impressive gold plated reclining Buddha is 46 meters long and 15 meters high, and is designed to illustrate the passing of the Buddha into nirvana. The feet and the eyes are engraved with mother-of-pearl decoration, and the feet also show the 108 auspicious characteristics of the true Buddha.



The large grounds of Wat Pho contain more than 1000 Buddha images in total, most from the ruins of the former capitals Ayutthaya and Sukhothai. The grounds are split in two by Chetuphon road. The northern section is generally the only one most people go to, and it includes a large bot (temple hall), enclosed by 394 bronze Buddha images. Outside the bot, there are 152 marble slabs depicting the second half of the epic Ramakien story. Also near here are four chedis, constructed to honor the first three Chakri kings (two for King Rama III). There are also a massive 91 others Chedis of varying sizes around the grounds, along with chapels, rock gardens, an array of different types of statues, inscriptions, bell towers and resident fortune tellers. The library is nearby too, decorated impressively with figures and pagodas made of porcelain, in much the same way as Wat Arun across the river. The much less visited southern section has less of interest, but makes a good place to find a monk to chat to for a while. Most would welcome the chance to practice their English on visitors.





TEMPLES OF AYYUTHAYA



Ayutthaya is the old capitol city of Siam, and is situated on an island between the collision of the Chao Phraya and Pasak rivers. The landscape of Ayutthaya is littered with ancient ruins and temples dating back to the 18th century. Many writers have said that Ayutthaya was one of the most powerful and stunning kingdoms of it's time. But like all kingdoms it was rife with corruption, not to mention a long, messy war with Burma. It soon fell and was replaced with Bangkok further south.

Ayutthaya boasts some of the historically most important temples outside Bangkok. The ancient ruins of Ayutthaya feature a range of architectural styles including Khmer and Burmese influence, while some of the less ancient structures display aspects of Western influence.


Wat Phra Si Sanphet


Wat Phra Si Sanphet

Wat Phra Si Sanphet (Sri Sanphet Rd) is the largest temple in Ayutthaya, known for its row of chedis (Thai-style stupas). Housed within the grounds of the former royal palace, the wat was used only for royal religious ceremonies. It once housed a 16-meter Buddha covered with 340 kg of gold, but the Burmese set fire to the statue to melt the gold and destroyed the temple in the process.


Wat Rajaburana


Wat Rajaburana

This temple is well worth the admission price. However, many tourists see it without noticing its main highlight. If you visit Wat Rajaburana make sure that you go inside the main prang and descend the entire staircase leading to the crypt. Enter from the porticos on the southern and northern side. This will give you an idea of how and why prangs were designed in this unique towering Khmer-style. More importantly, there are some very old Chinese-influenced murals located at the very bottom. They date back to 1424. There is also a photo display of the artefacts found inside the crypt (many of which are now stored at the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum in Ayutthaya). There are also a number of Garuda and Naga constructions outside the crypt that are worth a closer look.


Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon


Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon

This is a popular site that may be worth the price. The highlight is its giant Chedi, which can be walked into and explored. This Chedi is the highest standing building in Ayutthaya; tied with Chedi Phu Khao Thong. Only the central prang at Wat Mahathat stood higher than this, but it collapsed long ago. There is a reclining Buddha image that is also worth a look. If you cross the bridge to the north you can visit a large turtle pond, which has many varieties of turtles that can be fed for merit.

This temple, formerly known as Wat Pa Keo, most likely predates the Ayutthaya period. Two Dvaravati-period Buddha images were found at this site. However, the Royal Chronicles date its establishment to 1357. King U-Thong (1351-1369) ordered its construction as the crematory site of Chao Keo (who died of cholera and was temporarily buried here). The monks at this site were ordained at a meditation-based monastery in Ceylon. Somdej Phra Wanarat, who was a Supreme Patriarch, resided at this temple.



Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon has had a very troubled history. Nearly two centuries after its official foundation, this temple’s oracle was used for consultation prior to the overthrow of usurper, Khun Worawongsa, and his lover Sri Sudachandra. After the death of King Chairacha (1534-1547) a power struggle promptly followed. King Chairacha’s consort, Sri Sudachandra, poisoned their eldest son, who had inherited the kingdom at age eleven, in a plot to place her lover on the throne. This union lasted no longer than six weeks. Sri Sudachandra and Khun Worawongsa were executed quickly afterward, and King Chakkraphat (1548-1569) was convinced to leave monk-hood to become the new king.

Later in his reign, 1561, King Chakkraphat turned on the Supreme Patriarch at this temple and ordered his execution. The patriarch’s crime was providing an auspicious date for a rebel group to wage claim on the throne. King Naresuan (1590-1605) is credited with expanding this Chedi to its present size as a monument to his victory in a decisive battle against the Burmese.


Wat Buddhai Sawan


Wat Buddhai Sawan

This monastery is well worth a visit. The highlight is a central prang that has been painted white. Inside the actual prang are two interesting Buddha footprints and a reclining Buddha image that hides in the back. There are galleries of Buddha images on all sides of the compound. There is also a mural painted on a wall depicting Thai monks on pilgrimage to Sri Lanka in 1753 and 1755. A beautiful reclining Buddha rests outside of the compound on the eastern side.



This temple is the location where King U-Thong stayed while the Grand Palace was being constructed. The main prang was build in 1352, perhaps making it the first Khmer-style prang constructed in Ayutthaya. Many new constructions and renovations were added throughout the Ayutthaya period. After the city fell to the Burmese in 1767, this temple was heavily plundered. In order to fund the construction of a new capital and to finance armies for new wars against the Burmese, King Tak Sin sought resources from the old city. Chinese were recruited to find gold and silver in hidden caches. It took three large boats to haul away the precious metals from Wat Buddhai Sawan alone. King Chulongkorn played an active role in renovating this temple afterwards. The Fine Arts Department continues to help with restoration even today.





TEMPLES OF CHIANG MAI

Buddhist temples in Chiang mai show off a mixture of architectural styles that reflect the varied heritage of Northern Thailand. Elements from Lanna Thai, Burmese, Sri Lankan and Mon temples have all been used in one from or another. Intricate woodcarvings and protective Naga serpent staircases add a flamboyance that reflects an awesome reverence for the Buddhist religion. Gilded umbrellas, guardian figures from the tales of the Ramayana and stupas trimmed with god filigree combine to heighten the overall effect.

To date, there have been some 300 temples constructed in Chiang mai and its outskirts. Visitors should take the time to visit the most revered temples in the city, built during the noble Lanna Thai dynasty.


Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep


Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep

There are plenty of legends surrounding the mountaintop temple of Doi Suthep. Stories from long ago tell tales of a wandering 14th-Century monk and a dying elephant, a hermit and of villagers coming together to build a road to a holy shrine. Combined with the physical aura of the place, these stories weave a magic concoction for northern-bound travellers.

Rising 1676 metres above the city of Chiang Mai, Doi Suthep is one of the most revered religious destinations in Thailand and is often packed with interested onlookers, especially when the weather is cooler and the days crisp and clear. Legend tells us that a 14th-Century monk from Sukhothai had a vision one day - he saw a fire and when he followed it, he found a relic (apparently a bone) from the Buddha himself. He took the relic to his king, but it failed to reproduce its magical powers and the king lost interest. However, King Keu Naone of the Lanna Kingdom heard of the monk and invited him north to Chiang Mai and offered to enshrine the relic. The building was completed and preparations were made to house the relic. When the time came to do this, the relic broke in two, leading the king to make a new plan.

At the northern gate of the city, now known as Chang Puak (white elephant gate), he placed half of the relic on the back of a sacred white elephant and sent it off into the wilderness.

The elephant headed due west, climbed slowly up the slopes of Doi Suthep, trumpeted a last call and then dropped dead. On that spot, legend goes; the temple was built in 1383. Doi Suthep is actually named for a legendary hermit, named Sudeva, who lived on the slopes. Before this, about 1,000 years ago, it was still known as Doi Aoy Chang (Sugarcane Elephant Mountain).

It is easy enough to get to Doi Suthep. Public transportation may be used to travel the road 16 kilometres northwest out of Chiang Mai, past Chiang Mai University and ascend the winding road up the mountain to the base of the temple. There are two choices once you have reached the base of the temple - either hike up the 300 steps to the temple gate (admiring the longest Naga staircase in Thailand on the way) or, hop on one of the cable cars and get conveyed to the top. Most opt for the walk.



Once inside Wat Suthep, you are free to wander the grounds, admiring what each section has to offer. Like many temples in Thailand, there are elements of Hinduism mixed in with Buddhism and an intriguing array of statues, including the god Ganesh, peek out from corners, cubby holes and from the sides of temple buildings.

Metal bells, double-stacked, line a couple of walls and are kept busy throughout the day. Signs above the bells admonish visitors "not to push the bell."



The lookout area is the other side from the entrance gate and viewers can gaze down at the city of Chiang Mai and its international airport far below. From here, you have a clear view of the winding Ping River and the surrounding mountains.

In the middle of the temple is the sacred square cloister area, where, upon shedding shoes and ascending another dozen steps, visitors can see the Lanna-style, copper-plated Chedi topped by a five-tiered gold umbrella. It is considered one of the holiest areas in Thailand. Monks inside are kept busy blessing the devout with holy water and the smell of incense and burning candles fill the senses as you circumnavigate the cloister.

Another more recent legend about Doi Suthep concerns a monk in the 1930's. In 1934, there was still no road leading up the mountain and the faithful had to make the arduous climb in order to visit the temple. Pra Krubra Srivichai, a local monk, thought that the temple needed better access and organized the local villages in order to build a road.

He asked each village to construct 10 metres and with this plan in hand; the locals finished the job in just six months. A recent expansion of the road covered over plaques honouring each village, but a statue honouring Srivichai still remains, at the base of the mountain. It is believed to be good luck to pay homage to him before ascending Doi Suthep.



Many who visit don't realize that Doi Suthep is actually one part of the larger Doi Suthep National Park. The National Park encompasses 261 square kilometres. Evergreen hills, mixed deciduous and pine forest are all represented at the park and there are over 300 bird species and nearly 2000 species of fern and flowering plants that thrive there. During the late day and early morning, the bird species are much in evidence, flitting around the periphery of the temple.

Phra Tamnak Phu Phing, the vacation palace for the royal family, is also in the immediate area and is often included in tours to Doi Suthep, along with a visit to a local Hmong hill-tribe village.

Thanks to the industriousness of Srivichai, it is now easy to pay a visit to Doi Suthep, although the old hiking trail does still exist for those yearning for a more difficult challenge. Either way, the beauty, the holiness and the legends of Doi Suthep wait to be explored.




Wat Pra Singh


Wat Pra Singh

Located in the centre of the city at the intersection of Singharaj and Rajdamnern Road, this large Chedi was built in 1345 by King Pha Yu to house the remains of his father King Kam Fu. A typical scripture repository is located at this temple as well. These repositories were designed to keep and protect the delicate Sa or mulberry paper sheets used by monk and scribes to keep records and write down folklore. The high stucco-covered stone base of the repository protected the delicate scriptures from the rain, floods and pests.



The walls of the chapel are coverer with mural illustrating Lanna customs, dress, and scenes from daily life. The lovely Lai Kam chapel houses the revered Phra Singh Buddha image. Sadly, the head was stolen in 1922, and a reproduction is now seen.



CONCLUSION

Hopefully this will have given you a brief overview of what a Wat is and a look at some of the temples that I have visited during my travels.

It is always important to learn about culture, religion and traditions to gain flavour of where you visit and an understanding of the people you will meet. Visiting the Wats of Thailand is no exception and in addition, these are some of the most beautiful and highly revered sites in Thailand.

You can also do your own research from the following sites:

   


 
 
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